Chef Ajay Chopra offers insights into navigating the intricate and vibrant culinary landscape of the city as he opens his new restaurant. Chopra reminisces about his time in London in the late 2000s, where he led the esteemed Indian restaurant, Mint Leaf of London. He shares a story about a friend who worked with celebrity chef Marcus Wareing, a protégé of Gordon Ramsay. Wareing, known for his meticulous nature, arrived at the workplace precisely at 7am daily to work in the butchery. On one occasion, Chopra’s friend arrived at 7.10 am and was politely asked to leave. Another time, Wareing explained his focus on the butchery with the simple yet profound statement: “This is where the money is, mate!” highlighting the financial implications of even minor errors in a high-end restaurant.
Chopra emphasizes the importance of precision and perfection in the culinary world, stating, “Successful chefs take every aspect of their craft very seriously. You have to be razor sharp with your product, pricing, and staff.” These lessons, learned in one of the world’s culinary capitals, have shaped his 20-year career in hospitality. Now, as he launches Indikaya at the Shangri-La Hotel in Dubai, his expertise is evident. Indikaya, combining ‘India’ and ‘Kaya’ (meaning soul), celebrates progressive Indian cuisine, offering a menu inspired by the diverse flavors of India, particularly the lesser-known regions of the East and North East, presented in innovative Tapas-style dishes.
Despite Dubai’s already dense and competitive restaurant scene, Chopra remains optimistic. He envisions a high-energy bar serving Indian cuisine with an international twist, believing the city’s dining scene is ready for new concepts. Chopra notes that Dubai’s dining scene is divided between simple, no-frills eateries and extravagant, glamorous restaurants. “You are either serving the soul or something exquisite,” he explains, emphasizing the need to stay relevant and competitive.
Chopra’s approach to understanding and catering to his audience is shaped by his early experiences at Mint Leaf of London. He learned the importance of adapting to local preferences, which significantly improved the restaurant’s performance. He is skeptical about trends like molecular gastronomy, which he feels were more about spectacle than substance. Instead, he believes in postmodernism—a return to solid techniques over gimmicks, as exemplified by Noma’s innovative use of fermentation.
At Indikaya, Chopra’s menu reflects this blend of tradition and modernity, featuring dishes like Bengali Haddock and kaffir lime chicken tikka. He believes in the globalization of food, bridging cultures through innovation and experimentation, which he sees as key to elevating Indian cuisine on the international stage. Ultimately, Chopra cherishes the satisfaction of customers, the smile they give after enjoying a meal, as the true measure of a chef’s success.
