In 2001, when Chef Jason Atherton arrived in Dubai, the Palm Jumeirah and Dubai Marina were still visions of the future. Back then, the bustling hub was Deira, where he worked as the head chef at Verre, a Gordon Ramsay restaurant, for several years. Fast forward to Thursday, his establishment Row on 45 was honored with two Michelin stars, a mere ten months after its launch. Atherton described this achievement as his 'Dubai dream' and admitted to feeling tremulous when his name was announced.
“I can’t articulate the sensation,” he expressed. “It was incredibly special. It was deeply emotional for both my wife and me. The only comparable feeling was the first time I held all my daughters.” He revealed a slight surprise when his restaurant wasn’t listed among the one-star establishments. “Having held a Michelin star for 20 years, I’m aware that one isn’t invited if they haven’t won anything,” he explained. “So, even though our restaurant wasn’t on the one-star list, I knew we had won something. I just hoped it wasn’t a lifetime achievement award,” he laughed.
It was in Dubai that Jason met his wife, Irrha Atherton. “She’s from the Philippines and, like me, moved here to improve her life and her family’s,” he shared. “We fell in love and married in Jebel Ali. Dubai has been our home ever since, and we adore it here. I still keep in touch with friends from those days, and we both cherish this city.” After parting with Gordon Ramsay in 2010, Atherton established his own company and launched various restaurants worldwide. He was later invited by the Intercontinental to open a restaurant in Dubai. His Marina Social, a casual dining spot featuring British classics, has been a part of Dubai’s culinary landscape for six years.
However, he believes it was the arrival of the Michelin guide in Dubai that truly elevated the city as a serious food destination. “People from all over the world started coming to Dubai to experience its cuisine,” he noted. “And it wasn’t just about Michelin-starred or fancy food. Dubai made its mark with ethnic cuisine. Any type of food you can think of, you can find here.” Labeling Dubai a “phenomenon,” he said the city has taught him many lessons. “It’s literally the city of dreams,” he stated. “Succeed here, and you can make significant impacts. If you work hard and do good, the city will reward you. That’s the beauty of Dubai.”
As the UAE’s food scene heated up, Jason saw an opportunity to expand in Dubai. “We met with Pam Wilby from Grosvenor House, who mentioned they were closing down the nightclub and invited us to consider it,” he recounted. He was so enamored with the location that he decided to bring his City Social restaurant from London to Dubai in February 2023. Simultaneously, he began developing an experiential fine dining restaurant on the hotel’s top floor. Row on 45 offers a 17-course tasting menu for Dh1,145 per person, serving up to 22 guests daily.
However, he emphasized that his aim was not to be listed in the Michelin guide. “When I opened it, I didn’t want to put the team under the pressure of achieving a Michelin star, as that becomes the main goal,” he clarified. “The goal was to open a restaurant to serve the finest food possible and ensure every diner leaves happy.”
With the launch of the third edition of the guide, Dubai now boasts 19 Michelin-starred restaurants. Eighteen establishments received the Bib Gourmand for offering quality food at reasonable prices. Issam Kazim, CEO of the Dubai Corporation for Tourism and Commerce Marketing (DCTCM), celebrated the third edition, congratulating all the winners. “We extend our congratulations to all the restaurateurs, chefs, and talent involved in their respective successes,” he said. “Dubai’s culinary scene continues to be a key pillar of the city’s offerings, making it one of the best places to visit, live, and work, with diverse gastronomic options catering to all tastes and budgets for our visitors and residents.” Harkesh Jaggi, Vice President of MENA Michelin, praised Dubai for its “diverse, distinct, and thriving” food scene, adding that the guide further solidified the emirate’s status as an international gastronomy hub.
