Returning to London for the first time in five years, the Chicago Bears are approaching Sunday’s clash with Jacksonville with a relaxed mindset. With three wins in their first five games and a bye week upcoming, they have ample reason to enjoy their trip. The Bears adopted a comprehensive approach to their latest NFL International Series journey, spending the entire week in the Hertfordshire countryside. It’s more akin to a minicamp than a holiday, but the management was resolute in ensuring a life-enhancing experience in England, regardless of the outcome at Tottenham Hotspur Stadium against a Jaguars team more accustomed to London.

Playing abroad in the NFL is markedly different from a quick trip to Europe for a Champions League, United Rugby Championship, or Super League game. The entourage numbers closer to 200 than two dozen, resembling a traveling circus. There is a member of the football staff for almost every one of the 53 players, plus media and commercial teams. So many that they require two separate hotels. The football Bears settled into a Hogwarts-esque country hotel in the village of Thundridge, which briefly hosted the New York Jets last weekend and will welcome Jacksonville next week. It was an NFL production as much as a Merchant Ivory film. The teams train on a bespoke football field nestled into the side of a rural golf course, connected by Cold Christmas Lane at one end and Gentlemen’s Field at the other, with rap music startling the pheasants as it echoes across the previously serene Rib Valley.

The Anglo-American media indulged in cucumber and mint crustless finger sandwiches, followed by scones and clotted cream, washed down with Earl Grey tea. Press conferences were held in the Orangery, interviews in the walled garden. It wouldn’t have been surprising if Colin Firth had emerged from the pond, striding across the lawn in dripping jodhpurs. “It’s a bit crazy for sure,” admitted Bears rookie wide receiver Rome Odunze. “Every time you go to a new place, it’s a bit of a culture shock. It’s been awesome to have this opportunity and make the most of it, as well as being here to win a football game.”

Last week, the Jets cut it fine. They “followed the science” and treated it like a trip to San Francisco—“a pretty quick trip—up and down,” said then-coach Robert Saleh—arriving Friday, leaving Sunday night, and minimizing travel once there. This backfired. Even before the game, veteran quarterback Aaron Rodgers expressed frustration at having no time to do anything interesting. A sluggish first-half performance led to a narrow defeat by the Minnesota Vikings at Tottenham, and Saleh was axed on Tuesday. The Bears’ gentle GM, Ryan Poles, familiar to UK fans from the HBO documentary Hard Knocks, also claimed to have followed expert advice—from sports scientists working with international tennis stars—on how best to prepare, resulting in the opposite approach. But there was a personal development side to the decision, too.

“Travelling the entire team in season brings a lot of challenges—and opportunities,” said Poles. “It’s the first time I’ve been in this area my entire life, so just exploring it and seeing new parts of the world is important from a human element.” His players certainly appreciated it. Having flown overnight on Monday, the Bears had Tuesday to themselves and made the most of it. While the logic was all about getting their body clocks right and preparing properly for Sunday, effervescent wide receiver DJ Moore couldn’t hide his delight at spending his day off in London. “It was amazing. We ended up having a full tour. We ate dumplings in Chinatown! The biggest challenge? Not spending all our money shopping!”

While almost every NFL player has been boarding a plane every other week since leaving home at 17 or 18 to go to college, some of those playing in the London games have never been abroad before. Odunze’s only previous trip to Europe was to Italy (yes, he was named after the Eternal City), so he also appreciated the club’s decision to come early. “It’s 100% so much better. The whole spirit of this is bringing something really important to American culture over to this side of the world, and it means a lot more when the team gets to be involved in the community and culture a little bit, and enjoy some of the things it has to offer. I got to go down to the city of London, look around a bit and do some shopping, which was a lot of fun. I just like talking to people, different mindsets and personalities. I go low profile—I try not to wear anything from the Bears. I just want to have a general conversation. I didn’t get recognised, which is nice—and the first time for a while.”

Odunze’s debut season success will rely on being found by fellow rookie and star quarterback Caleb Williams. The NFL’s No 1 draft pick completed 15 passes to Odunze in the first five games. Despite not turning 23 until next month, Williams is far more traveled than many of his teammates. While reluctant to reel off where he’s been, he said: “I know that you learn from travel, and I really enjoy it. I love food and I’m interested in architecture, and it’s different wherever you go. Travel helps me reset during my off time.” Viewers of Hard Knocks will have seen how the cultured Williams defies the stereotypical images of the bombastic NFL player and narrow-focused quarterback. “I do things outside football, my hobbies, that I like, I be myself. The biggest thing is not trying to be in someone else’s shoes.”

Odunze, by contrast, is new to all this. Born in Utah and raised in Las Vegas, Odunze spent four increasingly successful years with the Washington Huskies at college in Seattle. At 21, he moved to one of the world’s buzziest cities. “Chicago is very different, but it’s been really welcoming,” said Odunze, who is living alone in the city but has regular visits from his parents and girlfriend. “The biggest difference from college is having a good amount of free time. College is very strict and routine every day. Now you have to have your own routine and things that you like to do.”

After a flying start to his NFL career, in which Bears offensive coordinator Shane Waldron fielded Odunze and Moore for almost every snap in weeks two and three, he is now sharing wide receiver duties with Keenan Allen. “It’s not like college where some weeks you know you’re going to have a good day, go out there and blow a team out,” said the friendly Odunze. “In the NFL, every game and everyone is tough. I need to make sure I have all the skills and assets to compete at this level, which to this point in the season I think I do have, and keep sharpening and elevating.” Poles is happy with Odunze’s start. “He’s done a really good job. The tough part about being a receiver is you run a route and sometimes you’re not seen, but you’ve got to remain patient and stay alive. I’m happy with where he’s at. He’s going to keep improving.”

Having been an All-American and National Championship finalist with the Huskies, Odunze was under pressure to deliver right away, having gone No 9 in the draft. “Where you get drafted is unique for each situation. For me, I want to prove to everybody that I deserved to go where I went and continue to surpass expectations of people in the facility or the fanbase or wherever anyone’s assessing my game. But firstly for myself. I set high standards which allows me to play free.” Training against world-class defenders helps that on a daily basis. “We have some of the best corners in the league, so getting those reps against them helped teach me and transition into the professional level. The biggest difference in the NFL is there are a lot less mental mistakes. Everybody is very assignment-sound. In college, people mess up or don’t get the technique right. In the NFL, that doesn’t apply. There are very few mistakes.”

Seeing the Vikings go 5-0 at the head of NFC North puts serious pressure on the Bears, knowing they won’t get a chance to inflict defeat on any divisional rivals until week 11. A trip to England to face the 1-4 Jags seems a very welcome break.