Avid travelers and adventure seekers might look upon UAE residents Rajith Kizhakkekara Neelancheri and his companion Binish Krishnan with a tinge of envy, as the duo savors the extraordinary experience of starting their day with breakfast in Kazakhstan and concluding it in China—all within the same day. Driven by their mutual passion for adventure, the pair meticulously charted their 13,000km journey through Iran, Central Asia (including Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, and Kazakhstan), and the mountainous regions of Nepal before eventually reaching the southern Indian state of Kerala in approximately 40 days.
Their expedition commenced on August 26 from Abu Shagara, with the iconic skyscrapers of Dubai fading into the distance as they embarked on their quest. Equipped with 20-25 cans of Kerala-style ready-made curries, maps, medical supplies, car tools, repair kits, and an unyielding enthusiasm, they set off in their Toyota 4Runner, the engine's roar marking the beginning of an unforgettable odyssey. "This idea took root in 2019. My friend and I wanted to undertake something that most people wouldn't dream of. I'm an avid hiker, and my friend is an off-road enthusiast. However, driving through multiple countries required extensive paperwork and legwork, particularly for obtaining visas. We made numerous calls to embassies for details. In February, we initiated this process and secured all our visas by the end of July. In some countries, we needed not only visas but also entry permits for the car and a GBAO permit for Tajikistan," Rajith explained.
The 31-year-old elaborated that they needed this special permit to traverse the Pamir Mountains and highway, as well as the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO). "Since part of the Pamir Highway borders Afghanistan, this security measure is crucial and necessitates these additional documents, as the area is under military control. Along the way, we encountered around 10 checkpoints where we had to present all our papers," he added. The pair drove continuously throughout the day, ensuring they stopped at night to rest either at hotels or by camping in suitable spots. Notably, last June, the friends also embarked on a road trip through Saudi Arabia, Bahrain, and Qatar before embarking on this grand journey. "We returned to the UAE within 48 hours after visiting all these countries," added Rajith, who works as a production in charge at a printing press in Dubai.
Entering Iran, their first stop, Rajith and Binish were greeted by the warmth of the locals, the mesmerizing beauty of ancient landscapes, and the vibrant markets of the cities. Binish, who runs his own business in Dubai, said, "We spent three days exploring historical sites, savoring Persian cuisine, and marveling at the architectural wonders of Iran. Then, we crossed into Turkmenistan, where the desert gave way to vast stretches of barren land. Turkmenistan wasn't part of the original plan, but we included it to see the 'Darvaza gas crater,' a burning natural gas field drilled by Soviet engineers in 1971. The moment you enter, you can smell the gas. It's a geological marvel."
Following this sojourn, the towering peaks of Uzbekistan's mountains emerged, drawing them towards Samarkand, a city renowned for its role in the ancient Silk Road. "The blue-tiled mosques were a marvel with their intricately designed buildings," added the 40-year-old. The duo then ventured into Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan, where they were greeted with rugged landscapes, high-altitude passes, and winding roads. They spent two days navigating the Pamir Highway, one of the highest and most perilous roads in the world. The steep mountain passes and hairpin bends tested their driving skills to the limit. There were moments when the sheer cliffs seemed too perilous, but they pressed on. However, no adventure is complete without challenges that often add character to a journey.
"We had a tyre puncture on the Pamir Highway, which is acclaimed as the second highest altitude international highway in the world. Somehow, we managed to navigate that," said Binish. While driving through Turkmenistan, their voyage encountered another obstacle. Their car was struck by a stone that cracked their windshield. "The crack spread across the glass like a spider's web. Although it didn't shatter, it hindered our visibility as it continued to grow. We've seen the world through a cracked windshield, and every scratch tells a story. Eventually, we reached Uzbekistan, where we found a local mechanic who temporarily patched the damaged area," he recounted. Kazakhstan provided a welcome respite after the harrowing mountain roads. Here, they spent three days, allowing themselves to recover from the intensity of the previous days.
Speaking about the rapidly changing landscape, Binish added, "Crossing into China was an experience in itself." He said, "When we were crossing through China on September 11, we were treated to the beauty of the mountains initially, but in no time, the landscape transformed into lofty sand hills. We followed a local and did dune bashing in the Gobi Desert. By evening, we were in Tibet, with its towering peaks and the Himalayan range." "The mountain passes of China were both exhilarating and terrifying, but the sight of Everest looming in the distance left us breathless," added Rijith.
