São Paulo's Liberdade neighborhood, the largest Japanese community outside Japan, is famous for its Asian-style architecture, restaurants, and public lighting that mimic paper lanterns. Thousands of tourists flock to the area to experience its cuisine and culture, often oblivious to the neighborhood's Black history. The name 'Liberdade' (liberty in English) is tied to the story of Chaguinhas, a formerly enslaved Black soldier who was sentenced to death in 1821 after leading a protest for better wages, inspiring spectators at his execution to call for his 'liberty.'
'When people see the neighborhood, there is another history being told,' said Debora Pinheiro, a guide on a tour attended by Reuters. 'The Japanese arrived in the early 20th century and started a process of gentrification. But the Black presence is still significant.' Afrotourism, which focuses on Black history, is gaining traction in Brazil. Guia Negro, founded in 2018, aims to spread awareness of often-overlooked historical narratives and now offers tours in 22 cities, including Salvador, Rio de Janeiro, and São Paulo.
In 2023, the tourism agency announced plans to promote businesses alongside tourism. That same year, Pequena Africa in Rio de Janeiro attracted more visitors than the iconic Christ the Redeemer or Sugar Loaf mountain, according to data from the Rio mayor's office. Pinheiro noted that the commercial renaming of Liberdade's metro station to include 'Japao' (Japan) underscores how Black history is often marginalized in São Paulo.
Although not as renowned as Salvador, the 'Blackest city outside of Africa,' or Rio de Janeiro's Little Africa neighborhood, São Paulo boasts the largest Black population in Brazil in absolute numbers. Black American tourists are frequent clients of Guia Negro, drawn to Brazil for its welcoming atmosphere.
'Brazil made me feel like a Black queen,' said Dr. Chanel Adrian Clifton, who participated in the tour. 'I feel very welcome, powerful, and understood.' Guilherme Soares Dias, founder of Guia Negro, established the organization after experiencing racial profiling abroad. 'I wanted to create a platform to encourage more Black people to travel and for everyone to learn more about Black history and culture,' he said. Guia Negro focuses on historical education to combat prejudice.
In October 2020, police officers, alerted by social media posts about a 'Black march,' attended the tour. For three hours, they questioned, filmed, and followed the organizers, suspecting the paid touristic tour was a protest. In April 2024, a judge ordered the São Paulo State to pay 750 thousand reais ($138 thousand) to Guia Negro in compensation for 'moral collective damage and discriminatory action, with clear outlines of institutional racism.'
