As I sought a few tranquil moments in the evening, my mother — the family's perpetual social organizer and in-house party planner — inquired, “Have you settled on your Diwali attire this year?” After a momentary pause, I casually mentioned one of the kurtis I had acquired the previous year. Her silence spoke volumes, and I could almost sense the mental turmoil that followed at the mere suggestion of something ‘casual.’ After all, she had orchestrated a Diwali celebration on a scale comparable to a wedding, extending not over days, but weeks, involving every family friend we’ve accumulated over four decades in the city.

So, after the gasp and the inevitable side-eye, I found myself navigating Dubai’s bustling markets in search of not one, but three new ensembles — because, naturally, last year’s ‘adequate’ dresses were now deemed merely acceptable. But as she meticulously discussed the desired stitching with the tailor, my attention was captivated by the jewellery. Everywhere I looked, the same patterns were evident, and it wasn’t difficult to understand why. This year’s jewellery trends have been profoundly influenced by one event: the Ambani wedding, which, let’s be honest, practically established the global benchmark for opulent styling. And, of course, Bollywood’s brightest stars such as Kiara Advani, Alia Bhatt, Arpita Mehta, and Parineeti Chopra have all contributed to keeping these trends alive.

If you, like me, are caught in the whirlwind of last-minute Diwali shopping, join us as we delve into the season’s most sought-after gemstones, cuts, and styles. Our trend insights will not only prepare you for Diwali but will carry you through the entire festive season. This is where timeless tradition effortlessly blends with modern elegance, shining in all its festive glory.

Emeralds: On an all-time rise

Emeralds

Not certain if they ever fell out of favor, but one thing’s for sure — the Ambani wedding imparted some invaluable lessons in jewellery styling. The foremost? Emeralds are the ultimate go-to. If you ever find yourself uncertain about which jewels to pair with your outfit, try to match the hues. But if that fails, emeralds — or anything in a rich green shade — are your stylish fallback. Emeralds are renowned for their rich green hue, which stems from trace amounts of chromium or vanadium. The color is both intense and calming, standing out against most metals and skin tones, making it a favorite among various jewellery designers. Historically linked to royalty, wisdom, and renewal, emeralds symbolize love, growth, and prosperity — qualities perfectly suited to the glamorous, aspirational lifestyles of today’s A-listers.

Temple jewellery: It’s cooler than you think

Temple jewellery:

South Indian actresses Sobhita Dhulipala and Aditi Rao Hydari recently showcased their cultural heritage during their wedding celebrations, reigniting a love for traditional temple jewellery. This resurgence has taken Instagram and, of course, your mum’s WhatsApp groups by storm. But let’s be truthful, temple jewellery never truly faded; it’s merely enjoying its well-deserved moment in the spotlight again. Temple jewellery, with its intricate craftsmanship and heritage appeal, is the ultimate savior for those embracing a fully traditional ensemble. No need for modern tweaks — this style speaks for itself, adding sophistication with a nod to an era of regal grandeur. It’s the perfect blend of elegance and nostalgia, bringing old-world charm to the forefront of today’s bridal trends.

Pastel gemstones: The choice of young party-goers

Before you dismiss sage green as too light for your melanin-rich, Asian skin tone, consider this: when paired with the right shades, it can offer a refreshing, modern twist to traditional jewellery. While this trend initially emerged around 2018, it was Alia Bhatt at the Ambani wedding who truly brought it back into the spotlight. Maheep Kapoor, from Fabulous Lives of Bollywood Wives, has also frequently embraced this look. Pastel gemstones, whether in kundan or polki jewellery, add a playful and youthful appeal. Popular combinations include morganite, Russian emerald, Thai ruby, blue enamel, and South Sea pearl, each bringing its own vibrant colors to play.

Uncut Polkis: Can be layered or worn alone

Uncut Polkis

The Ambani festivities were nothing short of a masterclass in luxury and tradition, with a stunning array of polki jewellery on display. Polki, the uncut diamond, has been a timeless favorite, and the celebrations proved why. Polki is celebrated for its raw, organic beauty. Unlike traditional diamonds, it remains untouched by chemical or physical treatments, preserving its natural form and character. The diamonds are often cut to follow their original structure, creating a surface that’s polished but non-faceted, adding to their rustic charm. Radhika Merchant graced each event with breathtaking polki pieces, starting with a custom bandhani lehenga at the Mameru ceremony, which she paired with a striking polki choker. For the sangeet, she dazzled in a sequin saree, accented with moissanite polkis, while her rust-pink lehenga at the haldi was beautifully complemented by a polki necklace and matching earrings. Today’s jewellery lovers are drawn to the layering of chokers with long haars or the bold beauty of Kashmiri jhumkas. These pieces aren’t just a nod to cultural heritage but have a modern appeal, making them as relevant at a wedding as they are at social gatherings. Polki’s ability to seamlessly blend with vibrant gemstones like rubies and emeralds adds that extra sparkle, quite literally.

Cocktail jewellery: An opportunity to flaunt your personality

Cocktail jewellery:

If you’re seeking a departure from traditional Indian jewellery, there’s a fresh wave of fusion and cocktail pieces making a notable impact on the scene. Perfect for pairing with your Indo-Western and contemporary Indian outfits, these designs stand out with their unique shapes, vibrant colors, and often thematic motifs. Initially inspired by the Indian take on resort wear and propelled further by the rise of destination weddings, animal-inspired cocktail jewellery is a fitting choice for your lively Diwali celebrations. Whether you’re opting for a classic white brocade kurta or experimenting with a bralette and dhoti ensemble, Indian cocktail jewellery offers a playful and versatile option for any occasion.

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