Skin, once considered just an organ, is now envisioned as glass-like in 2024; flawless and radiant. The hashtag #glassskin boasts over 1.2 million posts on Instagram, and skincare influencers have persuaded netizens to strive for skin so clear it reflects light. Terms like 'retinol', 'niacinamide', and 'hyaluronic acid' have become commonplace, and skincare routines now often involve at least 10 steps.

Dubai resident Tooba Chaudhry once found herself 'falling down a rabbit hole' in her quest for hydrated, youthful skin, focusing on reducing hyperpigmentation. 'Growing up with brown skin comes with its own set of struggles, especially around issues like hyperpigmentation,' she says. 'I tried countless products and wasted a lot of money, but eventually realized it wasn’t getting me anywhere. My skin looked the same, and I grew more frustrated with the process.' She decided to simplify her routine, sticking to basics like double cleansing, sunscreen, and hydration, and adopting the one-product-at-a-time rule. 'It helped me figure out what truly works for my skin, and now I’m much happier with my routine and approach.'

Multiple factors, including social media, peer pressure, the rise of skinfluencers, and the 'Korean Wave' (a global craze for Korean culture including K-Pop, K-Dramas, and K-beauty, which popularized 'glass skin'), have fueled a surge in interest in skincare products and treatments. While beauty content on social media can be entertaining and informative, experts warn that it can also spread misinformation and lead to obsession with far-reaching consequences.

About 20 percent of Dr. Akreti Sobti’s patients at Athena Dermatology Clinic seek skincare routines, some as young as 16, with no skin ailments. The dermatologist has had to decline requests for procedures like lip fillers and skin lightening treatments on such young skin. Patients also unrealistically desire to resemble Korean stars, often ignoring anatomical differences due to ethnicity and skin type.

Dr. Sobti’s clientele includes those struggling with side-effects from overusing products like topical creams with steroids. 'A patient might use it initially to treat a rash and then notice it gave them fairer, glowing skin in six months. They begin to overuse it and suddenly, they are left with dry red patches on their skin,' she explains. Dr. Sobti recalls a 30-year-old patient who spiraled out of control while self-treating acne with every product promising blemish-free skin, causing further damage that took months to rectify.

Alefiyah Johar, co-founder of FC beauty and partner at Fakhree Al Hindi Co LLC, points out that the Covid-19 pandemic also contributed to this trend as people consumed more beauty content online during lockdowns. 'The marketing and branding of skincare products has changed, with companies now using subtle pale purple, pink, and pastel shades to attract teenage girls,' she says. Gullible youngsters often end up purchasing perfume or scent-heavy creams that cause acne, eczema, and puberty changes due to hormonal imbalances.

Johar started her career as a junior interior designer, spending long hours outdoors, which led to cystic acne. 'I had clear skin throughout my childhood and teens, so when I began to get these acne spots and scars all over my face, I got really upset and frustrated,' she says. 'It affected my confidence.' She visited a dermatologist, who treated the acne, but the marks and spots remained. Johar joined her family’s beauty business and began researching and trying out skincare products. 'At that point, it was something new and fascinating to me. And when I began to see results, I thought I could use it to clear up my skin,' she says. 'That’s when I started to use different local and international brands — not only the brands that I was bringing in, but other brands as well because I wanted to get that ‘glass-skin’ sort of thing.' Her skin didn’t react well to the products. 'That’s when I realised that I don’t need to follow every trend and that I just need to stick to the basics.' Today, Johar uses no more than five products: toner, serum, suncream, moisturizing cream, and essence. 'When it comes to skincare, less is more,' she points out. 'People are trying everything to achieve glass skin. And the beauty industry is capitalising on that interest by coming up with new products.'

In extreme cases, people spend all their money on expensive skincare products and treatments, leaving them with little to afford basic necessities like groceries and even rent. Experts have coined a new term for this — dermorexia. According to a September 2024 article in Grazia magazine, dermorexia is 'a preoccupation with perceived imperfections pertaining to skin such as acne or scarring'. It’s important to note that doctors cannot clinically diagnose it.

Dermatologist and plastic surgeon Dr. Mahra Lutfi explains, 'It’s a body dysmorphic disorder where people perceive themselves depending on their appearance and body image, and do excessive skincare routines and treatment.' Such patients avoid social interactions and public outings, leading to emotional distress and deep mental health issues. There’s a fine line between a harmless interest in skincare and a full-blown obsession. 'You begin to get too obsessed about your skin and look at yourself constantly in the mirror, pricking your skin,' says Dr. Lutfi. Such people are fixated on imagined 'flaws', undergo frequent dermatological procedures, and buy every product advertised by their favorite skinfluencers. 'They invest a lot of time and money in it,' she adds. 'I usually try to calm down such patients and try to make them feel good about themselves.'

One of Dr. Lutfi’s patients, a 16-year-old girl, was so obsessed with her skin that she spent three to four hours daily cleansing and exfoliating it. 'She spent a lot of money on products and experienced low self-esteem, social withdrawal, anxiety, and depression,' recalls Dr. Lutfi. There were physical manifestations of the obsession as well — she suffered from red, inflamed skin as the products didn't suit her. In such instances, Dr. Lutfi suggests consulting a therapist, which the patient did. 'It can develop into a psychological obsession if you don’t treat it on time, especially in young people who are so influenced by social media and beauty trends.' She remained in touch with the patient and is pleased to see that the teenager now enjoys a healthier relationship with her body and skin.

When approached correctly — using high-quality skincare products, following a simple yet effective routine, or opting for safe, age-appropriate procedures that enhance one’s features — skincare can boost self-esteem and confidence. However, going overboard can result in an all-consuming desperation to meet unrealistic beauty standards. 'You have to adopt a balanced approach towards skincare,' adds Dr. Lutfi.

Top tips for healthy skin:

1) Don’t buy every product advertised on social media, advises Dr. Mahra Lutfi. 'Some of them are off the shelves and influencers promote them. But remember they are influencers, not doctors.'

2) Limit your time on social media. Exercise can also give you healthy, glowing skin, so instead of doom scrolling for hours, go for a jog.

3) Follow a simple skincare routine. 'Eat healthy and sleep well,' she adds.