Tucked away in the vibrant heart of north London's Finsbury Park, the vivid yellow facade of Yum Bug, the insect-centric eatery, bursts forth with youthful exuberance. This establishment, far more akin to a vibrant butterfly than a subdued moth, began as a quirky pop-up in 2018, conceptualized by 30-year-old friends Leo Taylor and Aaron Thomas. Their vision was to demonstrate that edible insects could foster a healthier and more sustainable food system, free from conventional animal farming. The statistics speak volumes: insect farming emits significantly less greenhouse gases compared to traditional livestock, while offering around 50% more protein than beef. These creatures can be cultivated vertically in stacked containers, optimizing space and boosting yields. They are remarkably efficient at converting plant by-products into protein and produce 80 times less methane and 8-12 times less ammonia than cattle. While their eco-friendly credentials are irrefutable, the question remains: can this superfood, burdened with an image issue, win over the average diner?
Yum Bug is a cozy restaurant that accommodates 20 guests. The interior, with its minimalist industrial design in shades of black and chocolate brown, serves as a subtle backdrop for the main attraction—the cricket-centric menu. Host Donal MacAuley greets me warmly, his passion and expertise on all things cricket palpable. He gently navigates me through the menu, pointing out the various forms in which crickets are incorporated—whole roasted in Bombay mix, minced in roasted vegetable salad, powdered in caramel baklava. It’s crucial for Yum Bug that patrons have the opportunity to ask questions, digest the information, and overcome any initial hesitations before diving in.
I opted for a selection of the most cricket-centric dishes alongside some of the most popular items on the menu. The first dish to arrive consisted of ramekins filled with whole honey-roasted crickets and a Bombay mix featuring spicy roasted crickets. Donal, noticing my initial hesitation, promptly explained, “Diners often mistake crickets for grasshoppers and anticipate seeing large, thin insects.” Indeed, I had. Little did I know that edible crickets are only slightly larger than a plump grain of rice. Donal described what to expect upon my first taste: “They’re crunchy on the exterior but softer within, akin to a Sugar Puff.” The honey-roasted crickets exuded a nutty fragrance, their tiny insect bodies glistening with honey as I leaned in. After a brief internal struggle, I scooped five into my mouth. Donal was correct—they were crunchy and sweet, with a smoky, nutty flavor that paired perfectly with a cold glass of wine or beer.
The Southern fried BBQ taco with rainbow slaw was a visual delight. Crickets were transformed into brisket-like chunks. The taste was spot-on, with just the right amount of spicy kick. The texture was smooth and soft, easily mistaken for chicken. Yum Bug’s crispy brown cheese and ale ‘crickettes’, made with minced crickets, boasted the appealing exterior of a traditional croquette, with a creamy, cheesy interior and a sweet top note from walnut ketchup.
The meal concluded with lemongrass posset, featuring caramelized cricket, coconut shortbread, and a sprinkling of whole roasted crickets for a satisfying crunch. My newly found ease with the idea of consuming an insect, one that actually resembles an insect, allowed me to fully relax. I savored the tart sweetness of the lemon and the smoky essence of the cricket, a combination that left an indelible impression.
Across the restaurant, Donal engaged in conversation with chef Samir. I could have sworn I saw a flicker of quiet satisfaction on his face as I enjoyed my cricket-infused dishes. Together, we had embarked on a culinary adventure, and he had another convert to add to his list. Yum Bug is open from Wednesday to Saturday.
